Restaurant Review: Archipelago, London

Let’s face it, one of the best parts of eating out as a group is being able to try everyone else’s food. It is ‘no strings attached’ eating; you can have a taste of something attractive and move on if the dish doesn’t satisfy. The very nature of eating as a group invites this sharing and consequently improves the dining experience. At no restaurant is this truer than at Archipelago in Whitfield Street, London.

The initial hook of Archipelago is the idea that this is a place with a menu showcasing ingredients that many will not have ever tasted before. Here you can comfortably have a crocodile and plum sauce starter, follow it with zebra and juniper berries and finish with a chocolate covered scorpion. To most Londoners, the menu would appear utterly outrageous, and this is ultimately the point. But this is food that gets people talking – it simply isn’t possible to have a dull time at Archipelago, even if some of the dishes are gimmicks rather than gastronomical achievements.

The restaurant itself seems hidden away but once you walk through the door, you’re transported to another world. The décor is simply stunning; the walls are covered in vibrant colours and world artifacts from all four corners of the globe, the menu arrives rolled up as a scroll and the place has an aura of fun and imagination that is lacking at many London establishments these days.

As a group of six, we decided to order four starters and share them, lessening any risk that someone might not like a dish or two and be stuck with it. These starters included ostrich, caramelized wild duck breast that was tender and juicy, rabbit with mole spread (I know), and stir fried frogs legs with vegetables. My Tilapia main course was slightly overcooked and had a charred aftertaste but it was mostly ok and the other mains were all exceptional.

I suppose the real triumph of this place is that you end up trying things you never thought you’d be brave enough to try. Even the most squeamish and conservative of diners ends up eating some strange piece of meat here. Unless of course you’re a vegetarian, in which case you are still catered for at Archipelago.

The drinks can also be a little bit different too. The post-meal ‘visit from the doctor’ appears to be a popular choice amongst the restaurant’s patrons. This is described as a ‘medicine chest of 12 digestive potions that will set you off homewards with a spring in your step.’ Examples of these concoctions include Shnapps with 24 carat gold flakes and vodka and vanilla. The beers are very good indeed but the wine list is far from comprehensive and perhaps lacks the razzmatazz that characterizes the rest of the menu.

As aforementioned, some dishes are gimmicks but this isn’t necessarily a bad thing in context. Eating cheaply isn’t really an option here; £6.50 for a rather tiny scorpion covered in chocolate is a purchase you may well look back on and grimace, but I suppose you’re paying for the insanity of it all. Sometimes we all need a little craziness. Here, you’ll probably enjoy every minute of it.

GRADE: B+

Prices

Starters range from £7 to £10.50
Mains range from £13.50 to £19.50
Desserts range from £6 to £8
Compulsory Service Charge at 12.5%
Cancelled bookings with less than 24 hours notice results in a £25 charge per head.


Nearest Tube – Warren Street on the Victoria Line